March 08, 2008

Costa Rica (Page 2) Hold onto your Wallets Bitches

.....I'm telling you, the Harpers are cursed and I KNOW all them chicharones they were eating had something to do with it.

Question: Which of these events could ruin your vacation?
a) your car breaks down
b) you get mugged
c) you have shitty weather
d) you run out of beer
e) all of the above
I guess the answer to this would be "all of the above" - so thankfully only three of the four shitty things happened to us. We never did run out of beer - THAT would have ruined the vacation.

After hiking all day in the blazing-assed sun from Rara Avis - we got back to the car in Horquetas ready to get on the road to the Carribean coast. We showed up and the car had a flat tire - no big deal if you got time to burn, which we didn't. We change the tire and de-funk the car of some rotten food that was left for 3 days in the heat and finally hit the road. Getting dark so we end up staying at a road-side hotel (Las Palmas). Clean up, eat at the on-site restaraunt, drink some beers, Jen and Doreen go to bed and Earl and I drink another beer. It's 9:00 and the bar closes. We're finishing our drinks and hear some music coming from down the road. "Hey, sounds like a bar, lets go get another beer!" - What an awesome idea - it was only 100 yards down the road. Nevermind that we are dressed in tourist surf trunks and are totally out of place with the locals. The beer was good and there was even a bar fight between two young punk kids. Pretty cool. OK, midnight, let's head back to the hotel. (walking-walking -walking) - half way back in the pitch black, some fucked up dude shows up out of nowhere, right next to us and mubbling something. Next thing you know, two other dudes grab me from behind and I'm on the ground in the middle of the (normally busy) highway. After a long scuffle (it seemed long, but was probably only 30 seconds or so) one of the guys says "the money! - the money!" I pull out my wallet (which, dumb-ass me forgot to leave back in the room) and a third dude swoops in and takes it and takes off running down the highway. The other two guys jump down the embankment into to woods. Meanwhile Earl is trying to chase the guy with my wallet down - but he's gone (the fucker's on speed or some shit). We collect ourselves, Earls leg is bleeding (he got tackled but fought em off), we're both pissed. We head back to the hotel and there are the wives waiting for us - all upset and even MORE pissed. I lost my wallet with about $100/credit cards/drivers license/free drink with purchase of Burger and fries at Wendys coupon....and a headlamp (which I was geekily wearing when the shit went down) and my wedding ring which I didn't even notice was missing until 2 days later. I also had some road rash and two black-ish eyes. Earl kept everything but a bit of blood - he got sliced a few times by a broken bottle one of those punk asses had. Thankfully we were both OK and there were no knives or guns involved.

Finally made it to Puerto Viejo for a little beach time - you know lay around in the sun drinking lots of booze and pretending to know how to surf. First off, we spent several hours driving up and down the coast trying to find a place to stay - everyplace was booked. We happened upon El Pizote (or something like that) on the north end of town. The place was reasonable and frikin' awesome - the Colombian family that runs the place is great. Stay there if you're in the neighborhood.

OK - now, beach time. Wait a minute, it's raining. OK, lets drive down the coast and "sight see" until it stops. Oh wait, we've got a problem -the car won't start. Son-of-BITCH. Nobody in town owns jumper cables so we have to swap batteries with a cabbie dude to get it going. Sweet - we're in business - it's running. Let it charge baby, don't shut er down. After an hour of "charging" we shut it off to test it before we head out of town. Shit, it won't start again. We find a guy that does not have jumper cables, but he's got some "wire" - I'm talking LITTLE wire. His buddy says "don't worry, he's an electrician". He holds the wire on his battery and I hold it on ours and HOLY SHIT the dammed insulation is melting off the wire along with my palm prints. Battery swap number two.
Last resort: keep the car running all day long. Bad thing is: we need to stay close to the car AND there is no gas station in town so we can't run it too long. We make the best of it. The next day we waste bumming rides off of people to get a new battery for the rental car.

In the land of the "rent-a-rasta" (male prostitute) - you might want to stay away from the "Chocolate Salami".



Costa Rica - Page 1 (Rara Avis)

It takes 5 hours by dirt track to Rara Avis (rare birds) Preserve. It's a remote jungly, muddy, rainy, poisionous-snakey piece of land located on the east side of Braulio Carrillo National Park.

First - a few hours on the back of a muffler-less Unimog. There will be no wildlife within a 5-mile radius when this beast is barreling down the road.

.......and the remaining couple of hours on the back of a tractor that has wheels that tend to fall off from time-to-time


We finally got there and thought "what the hell - where are all the birds?" (uhhh - maybe THAT'S why the place is called "rare birds" - because there ain't any) . But after hanging out for a few days we realized they mostly came in the morning in flocks that pass though in 10 minute blocks. In those ten minutes you could easily see 5-6 species - and I'm talking 5-6 NEW species each time. Pretty cool. We didn't see a LOT of birds, but we saw a huge variety. Check out the list at the bottom (about 1/2 of those are from Rara Avis).

.....The place may now have been renamed "Rara Cervezas" after we pretty much cleaned out their stock of beer and wine. The bar bill was more than the room.


We stayed in the more rustic accomadations - modeled after your typical 1930's Southern Mississippi architecture, complete with poisionous snakes.

....a waterfall bath was preferred over the creepy shower


We decided to hike the 12 miles out instead of taking the tractor - just as fast as the bumpy-ass tractor and we got at least another 10 birds.


...and in Horquetas we had chicharon and cevivche bocas and a few cold beers. And that's where our troubles began..........

.....I'm blaming the goddamn chicharones


February 2008 Costa Rica Bird List (check it suckas)
Grey Necked Wood Rail
Wattled Jacana
Northern Jacana
Grey-Headed Chachalaca
Black Guan
Turkey Vulture
Black Vulture
Plumbeous Kite
American Swallow-Tailed Kite
Semiplumbeous Hawk
Roadside Hawk
White Hawk
Short Billed Pigeon
Chiriqui Quail-Dove
Red-Lored Parrot
White Fronted Parrot
Common Barn-Owl
Squirrel Cuckoo
Groove Billed Ani
Common Pauraque
Long-Tailed Hermit Hummingbird
Green Hermit Hummingbird
Green Violet-eared Hummingbird
Violet Saberwing Hummingbird
Purple-Crowned Fairy Hummingbird
Green-Crowed Brilliant Hummingbird
Magnificent Hummingbird
Crowned Woodnymph
Purple-throated Mountain Gem Hummingbird
Cinnamon Hummingbird
Steely-vented Hummingbird
Green Thorntail Hummingbird
Violet Headed Hummingbird
Crowned Woodnymph
Belted Kingfisher
Keel-Billed Motmot
Collared Aracari
Emerald Toucanet
Keel-Billed Toucan
Chestnut Mandibled Toucan
White Fronted Nunbird
Acorn Woodpecker
Chestnut-backed Antbird
White Collared Manakin
Masked Tityra
Great Kiskadee
Grey-capped Flycatcher
White-ringed Flycatcher
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Long-Tailed Tyrant
Tufted Flycatcher
Scale-Crested Pygmy Tyrant
Wood Thrush
Sooty Robin
Clay-colored Robin
Brown Jay
Bananaquit
Black and White Warbler
Yellow Warbler
Collared Redstart
Slate-Throated Redstart
Grey-crowned Yellowthroat
Chestnut-sided Warbler
Black-Crowned Oriole
Baltimore Oriole
Montezuma Oropendola
Chestnut Headed Oropendola
Great-tailed Grackle
Olive-Backed Euphonia
Yellow-Throated Euphonia
Blue and Gold Tanager
Tawny capped Euphonia
Common Bush Tanager
Shining Honeycreeper
Scarlet Thighed Dacnis
Emerald Tanager
Golden-hooded Tanager
Black and Yellow Tanager
Blue-Grey Tanager
Tawny Crested Tanager
White-Throated Shrike Tanager
Scarlet-Rumped Tanager
Red-Crowned Ant Tanager
Buff-Throated Saltator
Greyish Saltator
Rose-Breasted Grosbeak
Orange-Billed Sparrow
Yellow-Faced Grassquit
Thick-Billed Seed Finch
Blue Seedeater
Rufous-Collared Sparrow
Black-Striped Sparrow
Olive Sparrow

January 06, 2008

January Random 10

Merle Haggard - You don't have very far to go
Sea and Cake - Interiors
Fugazi - Target
Broken Social Scene - Fire eyed Boy
Pepe Deluxe - Little Miss Cypher
M Ward - Who may be Lazy
Bootsy's Rubber Band - I'd Rather be with you
Yo La Tengo - From a Motel 6
Hacienda Brothers - Mental Revenge
Clap your Hands Say Yeah - Sunshine and Clouds



I smell tuna

January 05, 2008

When Life Was Good - Taos Dirt - Divisidaro Trail


For the past month here in Taos it's been below zero in the morning and not even reaching freezing during the day.....not good biking weather. It is, however, good weather for beer drinkin', football watchin', food makin' and butt scratchin' . I've been doing lots of all that stuff. So here from the dusty depths of the "F" drive, and with nothing else to do - is a write up on the Divisidaro Trail.

Divisidaro, which I think means "steeper than shit" in Spanish, is the best short-technical trail near town - and since it is kind of a burley climb, it does not see too much bike traffic. Hikers on the trail are generally not a problem since, on the climb, you won't exactly be blowin' doors - and on the steep twisty technical decent, they will gladly step aside in the hopes they will witness the "stupid biker" endo: skull on rock style. It's a tough trail, not fer greenhorns.



Here's what you do: From the plaza head south on highway 64, pass El Monte Segrado, Angeladas and that crazy place with all the blue glass chunks. Right after the Carson National Forest sign you'll see the trail head on your left (if you know this area, you'll see the end of the South Boundary Trail is right across the street). Anyway, hope you've been nice to granny lately because you're gonna need her "gear" for the next hour or so. Climb, climb, climb....rocky ledges, switchbacks, loose shit.....you got it all and you've gone anerobic on top of it all. It's tough right from the start and unfortunately it's like this all the way to the top. After 10-15 minutes you'll come to a split in the trail - both of them go to the top of Divisidaro Peak - left is longer and less steep right is shorter and more steep - but almost too steep. Going right you will be off the bike more. Left is more fun (in my opinion) - and cooler, if it's a hot day. Either way, continue on and you will know when you've conquered the bastard when you see two chairs made of rock - that's the top. It usually takes a little less than an hour to make the top (from town) and another 30 minutes to get back. Don't be surprised as you head back to the plaza, you're bike mysteriously starts to veer off track to the left, eventually leading you to a table under a cottonwood surrounded by hippies.......you must be at Eskes Brewpub.....don't fight it you'll just hurt yourself.

December 24, 2007

December Random 10


New Pornographers - Falling Through Your Clothes
Allen Brothers - Allen Brothers Rag
Kleenex - Heidi's Head
Interpol - C'mere
Pixies - Broken Face
Arcade Fire - Black Mirror
Mazzy Star - Unreflected
Tom Waits - Ain't Goin' Down to the Well
Tad - Stumblin' Man
Tortoise - I Set My Face to the Hillside